MAF Skid Plates 4+Plus

Here you see the tools I used.
Getting some anti-seize bolt lubricant is also a good idea.

First, remove the Stock Skids (just undue a few bolts and you’re there).
Keep the stock bolts, you’ll need to re-use them.

Start with the rear support beam.
You’ll first have to remove a few things that are in the way (Don’t worry we’ll put them back latter).

Like the exhaust brace.

And the break-line mount.
You’ll have to bend the lines a bit to get them into their new position.

Use the Floor Jack to put the Rear Support Beam into place
(it’s too heavy to hold up by yourself while trying to put everything together).
Bolt it up, along with the things you unbolted, using the same bolt holes.
Put the Bolts in most of the way, but don’t fully tighten them yet
(you’ll need a little wiggle room).

For the next piece you’ll need to remove the cross-frame supports.

The rear-most skid should now fit right into place.
The forward bolts are shared with the transmission skid, so don’t bolt those up just yet.

With the rear-most skid secured (but not fully tightened).
Your can now put the transmission skid in place.
(If you haven’t removed the stock skids yet, they will be in the way at this point).

Before putting the front skid in place,
you’ll need to get the spacers ready.

Now you should be ready for the front skid plate (re-using some of the stock bolts).
Once bolted loosely in place, you can go back and tighten everything down.
Go over each bold a few times, making it a little tighter each time.
Also don’t forget to put a little anti-seize grease on each bolt, so you don’t have problems taking them off a few years down the road.

– Posted by Spaldam